Just down the river is the French Quarter, the oldest part of New Orleans and the most famous; people come to the French Quarter from all over the world to drink and eat and listen to music. It’s full of neon signs and bars with the doors and windows wide open so you can hear the music, and incredibly bright bars that make incredibly strong drinks in to-go cups. Tourists walk around holding these drinks in plastic cups. In the doorways of the strip clubs, bored-looking women in lingerie lean against the wall while loud men rush at anyone who looks at the women, calling for them to come inside, come inside.

In the mornings, small trucks with large tanks of lemon-scented water drive through the Quarter, spraying the streets and gutters clean so that the new day’s drinkers will start fresh. A fine lemon mist hovers behind the trucks for a while. It’s quiet for a few hours in the Quarter; the jazz musicians, bartenders, strippers, and tourists are mostly asleep.

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